Anti-aging Effects of N-Acetylneuraminic Acid Cosmetic Raw Material

The pursuit of younger-looking skin is driving the cosmetics industry to pursue more active ingredients. N-Acetylneuraminic Acid (Neu5Ac) is an important form of sialic acid as an anti-aging compound. In this blog post, CASOV, a high purity natural cosmetics raw materials manufacturer, will share the anti-aging effects of active ingredients N-Acetylneuraminic Acid in cosmetics.

1. Overview of N-Acetylneuraminic Acid

N-Acetylneuraminic Acid is a nine-carbon monosaccharide that serves as the predominant member of the sialic acid family. It is biosynthesized from UDP-N-acetylglucosamine through a series of enzymatic steps in the cytosol, culminating in its integration into glycoproteins and glycolipids. In skin physiology, sialic acid-rich glycoproteins are crucial for maintaining cell-cell adhesion, intercellular communication, and modulating immune responses.

As a cosmetic raw material, Neu5Ac is typically derived via microbial fermentation, ensuring high purity and bioavailability. Its incorporation into skincare formulations has demonstrated promising results in both in vitro and clinical settings, particularly in aging-related skin conditions such as dryness, loss of elasticity, and dermal thinning.

2. N-Acetylneuraminic Acid Anti-Aging Effects

N-Acetylneuraminic Acid exerts its anti-aging effects through several biological pathways, including skin barrier reinforcement, inhibition of pro-inflammatory cascades, promotion of epidermal renewal, and oxidative stress mitigation.

2.1. Enhancement of Skin Hydration

One of the hallmark features of aging skin is reduced hydration, primarily due to decreased natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and impaired stratum corneum function. N-Acetylneuraminic Acid exhibits hygroscopic properties, enabling it to attract and retain moisture within the stratum corneum. Additionally, Neu5Ac modulates the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3), a water/glycerol channel protein, thereby facilitating intracellular water transport and maintaining dermal turgor.

Clinical trials have reported a statistically significant improvement in skin hydration levels following topical application of 0.1–0.5% Neu5Ac-containing formulations over 4–8 weeks. The hydrating effect is further augmented by its ability to stabilize the skin’s natural lipid barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

2.2. Modulation of Inflammatory Pathways

Chronic low-grade inflammation, or "inflammaging," is increasingly recognized as a driver of extrinsic skin aging. N-Acetylneuraminic Acid has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties through its ability to suppress the activation of nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB), a transcription factor pivotal in cytokine production.

In vitro studies on keratinocyte cultures have shown that Neu5Ac reduces the expression of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) in response to UVB irradiation or oxidative stimuli. This immunomodulatory role not only reduces erythema and irritation but also delays collagen degradation by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), notably MMP-1 and MMP-9.

2.3. Promotion of Epidermal Turnover

Skin aging is associated with a reduction in keratinocyte proliferation and impaired desquamation. Neu5Ac contributes to epidermal regeneration by influencing the sialylation status of glycoproteins involved in cell cycle regulation. This modification promotes cell-cell communication and enhances the activity of growth factors such as epidermal growth factor (EGF).

Moreover, topical application of N-Acetylneuraminic Acid has been linked with increased expression of keratin 14 and filaggrin, key markers of basal keratinocyte activity and barrier maturation, respectively. This effect helps restore the epidermal architecture, leading to smoother and more resilient skin.

2.4. Antioxidant and Photoprotective Activity

Oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and environmental pollutants contributes significantly to dermal matrix breakdown. N-Acetylneuraminic Acid exhibits free radical scavenging activity, indirectly through upregulation of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GPx). By reducing the intracellular levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS), Neu5Ac protects dermal fibroblasts from lipid peroxidation and mitochondrial damage.

Furthermore, Neu5Ac prevents glycation of skin proteins, such as collagen and elastin, which otherwise leads to the formation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs). These AGEs are known to stiffen dermal structures and contribute to wrinkle formation and skin laxity.

In summary, N-Acetylneuraminic Acid represents a scientifically grounded, multifunctional cosmetic raw material with compelling anti-aging benefits. Its action spans from molecular to clinical levels, addressing key aging hallmarks such as hydration loss, inflammation, dermal atrophy, and oxidative damage. As consumer demand shifts toward efficacious and biologically compatible skincare solutions, Neu5Ac stands out as a potent and promising candidate in the formulation of future anti-aging products.